Bristol Cliffs Ice Climbing

This was Isaac's first day ice climbing this season and it was awesome!  In addition it was my first lead of the season WI2+(wet!).  We each did several laps on very wet ice.  Leading was interesting in that none of the screws I placed were "good".  I learned quickly that once I started the screw, I had to commit, because the ice was so wet and the air temp. was so cold, that the ice froze SOLID in the screw almost instantly, rendering the screw useless.  Even with a special device to clear the cores of screws, they froze solid and the tool would not work.  Led up and set a TR.  Overall, a great day out.  We also checked out the gully up to the right of the main cliff, which I had never seen before.  Cool gully with a short pitch of WI2, with finish up a pitch of WI4.  This was Isaac's first time using his new ice tools as well.  Though they are straight shafted, they worked pretty well; they just require a more exaggerated wrist flick.  

Climbing up the center flow to dismantle the toprope

The awesomeness of Bristol Cliffs

Sportin' the DAS Parka (it was cold!)

Isaac lovin' his new tools

The new tools 

Arrhh! Thar Be Ice in Vermont

(Pirate Theme This Year)

Nate arrived on December 9th for his 3rd annual Vermont ice climbing extravaganza.  His arrival was perfectly synced with the freezing of the PNW and thus, highly accessible, rarely formed waterfalls (but hey, this usually happens when he comes out here).  Conditions were a little thin here for this time of year, but we made do.  Day one found us up in Smugglers Notch the "alpine" of Vermont, with a brutal one mile approach on a road.  Makes those 5 mile bushwhacks in WA look like cake.  First up was Grand Confusion (WI3+), which was fun.  Next on the list was a major classic called Poster Child (WI4/M4).  Last year when I climbed this route the mixed section was covered in ice.  I had never really climbed much mixed, so there was plenty of skittering crampons on rock and figuring out how to properly torque my tools.  The following day we headed back up to Smuggs and hopped on Ragnarock, a 3 pitch classic put up by John Bouchard in the '70s.  Pitch one was thin WI3, with plenty of swings into rock.  Pitch 2, normally rated M5, was more like M6 with the barely existent ice.  Very fun pitch.  Nate attempted the final WI4+ pillar, but it was quite hollow and sketchy, so we rapped to the ground.  On day 3 we once again hit up "the Notch".  Brutally cold barely describes the temperature this day.  A quick jaunt up ENT gully (WI2+/3) was fun, though cold.  The rest of the day was spent TR'ing a flow next to the road.  The next day was a rest day; much needed.  The last day we drove to Lake Willoughby in "The Kingdom" as they say in Vermont (The Northeast Kingdom), don't ask me why it's called this.  Lake Willoughby is awesome.  Home to WI5 and WI6 country.  We did two WI4+, so I can only imagine what the 5's feel like.  Climbed Twenty Below Zero Gully first.  Why it's called a gully I don't know, so far from a gully.  The second pitch of this route was a rain shower-read: soaking wet.  Next climb was another WI4+, don't remember the name.  Both climbs were amazing.  Thickest ice we swung into all week.  I'd also like to mention that we both slipped about a hundred times traversing to the climbs.  I've never walked on ground this slippery.  You were on your bottom, sliding down the hill before you even realized you had fallen...Awesome.  Ice season is in fully swing.  Couple more days of school and then I'll be swinging the tools again.  Good times.  Next year, Krista and I will be traveling to SLC to meet Nate for some ice.

At the top of Float Like a Butterfly at Lake Willoughby

Nearing the top of the 2nd pitch of 20 Below 0 Gully (WI4+)

Topping out Float Like a Butterfly at Lake Willoughby

Nate leading the 1st pitch of 20 Below

Reaching the 2nd belay on Ragnarock (WI4/M6)

Nate leading the 1st pitch of Ragnarock (thin ice, lots-snow over rock)

Nate traversing onto the ice on Poster Child (WI4/M4)

Nate on the tricky mixed start of Poster Child

Winter?

FYI, no pictures for this post, but some should be coming soon once I emerge from my cave of academic studies (and there is ice/snow outside).  Very warm Fall/Winter.  Here it is December 3 and it was 50F and raining today.  No snow, no ice; very weird.  Apparently this hasn't happened in over 15 years according to some reports I read.  However, in the next few days ice should start forming in places like Smugglers Notch and Mount Washington.  Just in time for winter break!  As many of you know, much of my time is spent studying and writing papers for the graduate program I am in.  Not to mention the delightful physics class I am in, which ends in a mere two weeks.  I will be happy when this semester is over, that is for sure.  Krista and I headed to Boston this past weekend to watch a Bruins game (hockey) and just relax.  Ate some excellent seafood and toured the city.  Bruins game was awesome (they won in a shoot out).  The only problem was the drunkards behind us who spilled beer on us (twice!).  We picked out our Christmas tree yesterday and will be setting it up this weekend.  That is about it right now.  Now time for some homework (as usual).  Some ice climbing reports may be coming next week, we'll see.