I Can See Clearly Now, The Rain Is GONE!

This has been an extremely rainy summer.  One of the rainiest in decades as a matter of fact.  I haven't really been able to get out much, not even to fly fish.  Either the rock is wet or the rivers are blown out.  Last week was the best weather we've had in months...It didn't rain for four days.  Since June, it has rained just about every day and on days that were "nice" , thunderstorms formed by afternoon.  Not much happening out here right now.  I start school next week.  I've been working for Lincoln Sports Summer Camp, here in Lincoln.  Krista and I started brewing our own beer, which has been a fun endeavor.  I've been doing a bit of hiking.  I hiked Mt. Abe with Isaac and Spencer a few weeks ago; It was Spencer's first time up.  Today I went rock climbing with Isaac over in the Adirondacks.  Led a couple of really fun climbs (my first rock leads in well over a year).  Summer is beginning to slip into Fall (42F last night).  Still several months of rock to climb (if it stays dry).  Stay tuned for some Boston pictures.

Lincoln from atop Mt. Abe

The Green Mountains

Krista bottling our brew

Isaac and Spencer on the summit of Mt. Abe (Lake Champlain in the distance)

Leading up an easy climb in the Dacks

Ratings are stiff out here: 5.not easy

Checking the guidbook

Our "Backyard"

Beaver Pond

Releasing a newborn painted turtle into the Pond

Just a hop, skip and jump from our doorstep

A small brookie (that was subsequently released)

Fishing the pocket water for some brook trout

SUMMER HAS ARRIVED! (Just about)

 The trees are starting to bloom in the mountains, while the lower elevations have exploded into life.  The state is proving it's nickname, "The Green Mountain State", as the once dead, scraggly hillsides are now lush and green.  The days are warm, but the nights are still chilly (below freezing a couple of times).  No more DAS Parka and letting the car warm up for 10 minutes during the -10F days.  Now it is time to ride my bike and enjoy the 80 degree weather.  Krista and I recently visited her parents cabin in the Adirondacks of NY.  Situated along a clear, mountain stream, nestled in the foothills of the High Peaks, the cabin is a lovely get away.  We went tubing down the New Haven River (located but steps from our front door in Lincoln).  I have also busted out my fly rod to try my luck for some brookies in the delightful New Haven.  I've done just a bit of rock climbing.  I am definitely a bit rusty at leading, so it may take some work.  All and all, it is shaping up to be a productive summer.  More to come on some Northeast adventures.

Preparing for my first lead in years 

Casting into the New Haven, 5 min from our place :)

Patterson Cabin (built by Krista's father)

THIS IS THE END...

I've decided to give up climbing.  No, I'm  just joking, that'll never happen. Okay, so seriously now, ice climbing season is pretty much over.  There will be some mountaineering routes to do (stuff in Huntington Ravine and over in the Daks), but real ice climbing is near the end.  At Smugglers Notch today temperatures soared into the 40's.  Everything took a beating from the last couple days of warm weather and rain.  Granted it will get cold again and will probably snow more, well into April, many climbs will no longer be in condition.  Knowing this, I decided to go out for one more day of swinging tools.  Overall I had a good ice season: led some fun routes and climbed a route that I've wanted to do for a while now, The Black Dike.  

Isaac climbing a fun WI3

Rapping the route after setting the top-rope

Climbing up to set the top-rope

Smugglers Notch Ice

A blustery day up in the Notch.  It wasn't cold (maybe 30 F), but it snowed and was windy all day, adding to the alpine spice of Smugglers.  First up was Ent Gully (2P, WI3).  Unfortunately I wasn't in the right head space to do it.  I made it most of the first pitch until the crux ice bulge.  Fun climb, wish I could of finished it.  Up next was Jeff's slide (WI2+ - 4).  I took the left line (WI2+).  The route was covered in a fair bit of snow and the ice was VERY wet.  My screws were a bit iffy.  On the crux moves my feet blew out twice, but that happens when you climb mush. 

Isaac getting ready for some belaying

Me rapping Jeff's Slide

Gearing up for for Jeff's slide

Me up in Ent Gully

Ice Climbing in the 'Daks

Went over to Chapel Pond Canyon with Isaac to climb some of the fattest ice i've seen.  Just did one route, but had a good day.  We also practiced some technical skills, including rappelling.  Isaac did his second rappel ever.

Shelburne Pillars Ice Climbing

One Sunday, Isaac and I headed to Shelburne Pillars, a hidden climbing area in South Burlington.  To access it you park in the parking lot of a shopping mall.  The climbing area is located along the La Platte River, only about a 10 minute walk from the car.  Totally hidden from roads, houses, etc., this area lies within Nature Conservancy Land.  First off I did a quick briefing on rappelling and had Isaac do his first rappel ever.  Then we got to climbing.  The climbs are short (maybe 40 feet tall at the most, but they are all steep WI4-WI5, with some mixed options).  A great place for toproping.  A fun day out once again.  

Me bouldering around

Isaac nearing the top of a deceptively steep climb

Bristol Cliffs Ice Climbing

The day before I had guided a beginner ice climbing course for Middlebury College and decided to take my cousin up to do some local ice.  Great day out and no one there.  The ice was as fat as I have ever seen at Bristol.  The ice was thick and took great tool sticks (though some of the screw placements were less than ideal due to the wetness of the ice)  I led up the right side of the central flow (WI2+).    Fun times.

Me climbing up to set a directional

On rappel off of a V-thread

I look stern, but I'm actually having a great time

Isaac loving the ice

Mt. Abe Winter Ascent

Last weekend Isaac (my cousin-in-law) and myself hiked Mt. Abe.  Normally I take hike Mt. Abe by approaching up the Gap Road (~1mi) to the Long Trail TH and then hike up the ridge to the summit (~4.something miles).  This time, I decided to take an alternate route.  We hiked up the Battell Trail, which is only 2.9 miles to the summit, instead of over 5.  This way also halved my previous RT time.  We made it to the summit in about an hour and 45 and took about 50 minutes going back down (plus 10 min on the summit) for a total of 2:45 car to car.  It was cold on the summit, but a great day.  

Northeast Ice Adventure #2

Nate flew out to VT for another go at some NE ice.  Conditions were favorable for the most part (some snow storms made driving a bit heinous and there was one day of climbing in a blizzard).  Overall though a really good trip; and we got the Black Dike.  Good times.

Nate leading the crux of the Black Dike

Bristol Cliffs. Though it looks good, the ice was very thin in spots.  My picks were dull after this day.

Waiting in line.  We waited 2 hours for a party to bail, before we started up the Dike

The Black Dike.  The two climbers in the picture were the ones we were waiting for.  There are on the first pitch.

Our Home in Lincoln, VT

Tieton Rock Climbing

I haven't rock climbed in over 7 months.  Rusty doesn't even begin to explain my current trad climbing abilities.  I climbed a rock gym with Nate and followed a multi-pitch route on Beacon Rock (which Nate led) prior to my Tieton trip.  This is fortunate or else I would have probably not been able to lead anything.  My gear placements were fine, but getting my "lead head" was the tricky part.  Oh well, it's ice season now (now I need to get my lead head for ice climbing-yikes).

Leaving Alaska

On September 21st Krista and I left Alaska, "outward bound" for Seattle, WA.  Winter was creeping in rather quickly.  Apparently Alaska doesn't understand Fall, because Summer seemed to drift into Winter, with only a quick glimpse of the glorious colors of autumn.  On the day we left we enjoyed a blizzard near the AK-Yukon border.  I have never seen snow flakes this size before.   It was like a bag of cotton balls being poured upon the earth.  The Yukon-uneventful, asides from a cracked windshield.  Animals spotted: moose, caribou, elk, bighorn sheep, deer, bison, and lots of carrion.  After five days of driving we arrived at the Emerald City (thankfully).