Keene Valley Ice Climbing

Krista's 1st Time!

On Saturday Feb. 3rd, Krista and I drove over to Keene Valley, NY.  In the past Krista has always been happy to be my belayer, but today she wanted to give the ice a try.  Despite wearing my oversized boots, she made her way up an excellent WI3+.  Quickly learning the importance of shaking out your arms to fend off the screaming barfies, and making good use of my new leashes, she's ready to get back out and try it again.  The ice is thick and there is more to climb, so we'll be headed back very soon.

Krista nearing the top of the climb 

Krista swingin' tools for the first time

Me

A happy Krista after finishing her first ice climb ever!

NORTHEAST ICE CLIMBING TRIP

JANUARY 2008

My good buddy Nate Farr flew out from WA to do some north east ice climbing.  Unfortunately his arrival marked the beginning of a multi day thaw.  Several days of 50-60F weather demolished much of the ice in all of New England.  Prior to the thaw, the ice conditions had been amazing, some of the best in years.  This was good because it meant that some stuff survived the hot weather.  We got on some good stuff throughout the area including climbs at Frankenstein Cliff, NH; Keene Valley, NY; Smugglers Notch, VT; and Bolton Quarry, VT.

Nate leading Dracula.  He's near the top of the 120ft pitch

Me following a mixed pitch at Bolton Quarry...it was REALLY warm this day

Nate leading up a short mixed pitch at Bolton Quarry, VT

Me ascending the 1st pitch of Elephants Head Gully

Me ascending the last pitch of EHG.  Nate led this pitch, it was an awesome mixed pitch

Nate rockin' some mixed climbing in Keene Valley, NY

Myself ascending some quickly melting ice at Keene Valley

Nate showin' us how its done with a heel hook

Dracula...at Frankenstein Cliff in NH.  WI4.  Nate led this awesome route, which had a tricky exit

2005 Mt. Foraker Expedition

Loading up the plane (thats our pilot)

The Alaska Range as seen from our plane

Mt. Foraker

Getting closer...

Mt. Crosson (12,000ft)

A closer look...the left trending ridge line is our route of ascent

Preparing to land on the Kahiltna Glacier

On the glacier, ready to slog

Our Base Camp, with Mt. Hunter in the background

Mt. Frances

Monstrous avalanche off of Mt. Foraker

Skiing up the icefall to recon our route


An awesome ski down the icefall

Climbing up the Southeast slopes of Mt. Crosson (50-60 deg. snow/ice)


Nearing our first advance camp at 9,600 ft. (Foraker in the background)


Home Sweet Home. Our precipitous camp, dug into the snow slope



Climbing out of a crevasse after taking an unexpected plunge



Retreat! Rappelling back to our advanced camp


Skiing back to Kahiltna Base Camp


Denali at Sunset

Mt. Hunter at sunset

On August 7-8th Krista and I backpacked up the Lost Lake Trail and spent the night at Lost Lake in the Ascension and Ressurrection Range of the Kenai Mountains. Lucky for us the trail head is about 5 minutes away.

Ressurrection Bay from the Lost Lake Trail
Me on the Lost Lake Trail

Krista taking a rest

Approaching Lost Lake

Lost Lake

Enjoying No Bake Cheesecake (delicious!!!)

Kenai Mountains

Sunset? (actually the sun never really set)

Sunset over Lost Lake

Alpine meadow, featuring the Monks Hood Flower

Krista and I

Me and my backpack, with Tiehacker Pk in the background

Some Alaska Adventures

Sweet view of the Kenai Mountains
Mount Ascension (5710')

My rope team of "attentive" students

My students on top of Mt. Ascension

Me on the summit of Ascension

SSD Couloir on Ressurrection Peak

Myself w/ the Ressurrection Glacier behind me

On the summit of Ressurrection (Solo Climb)

View of Ascension Glacier

Camp, with the nunataks of the Harding Icefield in the background

Pete and I trying our luck on the Kenai
Tying on a fly

Krista and I

Fishing and Rafting the Kenai