Bristol Cliffs Ice Climbing

This was Isaac's first day ice climbing this season and it was awesome!  In addition it was my first lead of the season WI2+(wet!).  We each did several laps on very wet ice.  Leading was interesting in that none of the screws I placed were "good".  I learned quickly that once I started the screw, I had to commit, because the ice was so wet and the air temp. was so cold, that the ice froze SOLID in the screw almost instantly, rendering the screw useless.  Even with a special device to clear the cores of screws, they froze solid and the tool would not work.  Led up and set a TR.  Overall, a great day out.  We also checked out the gully up to the right of the main cliff, which I had never seen before.  Cool gully with a short pitch of WI2, with finish up a pitch of WI4.  This was Isaac's first time using his new ice tools as well.  Though they are straight shafted, they worked pretty well; they just require a more exaggerated wrist flick.  

Climbing up the center flow to dismantle the toprope

The awesomeness of Bristol Cliffs

Sportin' the DAS Parka (it was cold!)

Isaac lovin' his new tools

The new tools 

Arrhh! Thar Be Ice in Vermont

(Pirate Theme This Year)

Nate arrived on December 9th for his 3rd annual Vermont ice climbing extravaganza.  His arrival was perfectly synced with the freezing of the PNW and thus, highly accessible, rarely formed waterfalls (but hey, this usually happens when he comes out here).  Conditions were a little thin here for this time of year, but we made do.  Day one found us up in Smugglers Notch the "alpine" of Vermont, with a brutal one mile approach on a road.  Makes those 5 mile bushwhacks in WA look like cake.  First up was Grand Confusion (WI3+), which was fun.  Next on the list was a major classic called Poster Child (WI4/M4).  Last year when I climbed this route the mixed section was covered in ice.  I had never really climbed much mixed, so there was plenty of skittering crampons on rock and figuring out how to properly torque my tools.  The following day we headed back up to Smuggs and hopped on Ragnarock, a 3 pitch classic put up by John Bouchard in the '70s.  Pitch one was thin WI3, with plenty of swings into rock.  Pitch 2, normally rated M5, was more like M6 with the barely existent ice.  Very fun pitch.  Nate attempted the final WI4+ pillar, but it was quite hollow and sketchy, so we rapped to the ground.  On day 3 we once again hit up "the Notch".  Brutally cold barely describes the temperature this day.  A quick jaunt up ENT gully (WI2+/3) was fun, though cold.  The rest of the day was spent TR'ing a flow next to the road.  The next day was a rest day; much needed.  The last day we drove to Lake Willoughby in "The Kingdom" as they say in Vermont (The Northeast Kingdom), don't ask me why it's called this.  Lake Willoughby is awesome.  Home to WI5 and WI6 country.  We did two WI4+, so I can only imagine what the 5's feel like.  Climbed Twenty Below Zero Gully first.  Why it's called a gully I don't know, so far from a gully.  The second pitch of this route was a rain shower-read: soaking wet.  Next climb was another WI4+, don't remember the name.  Both climbs were amazing.  Thickest ice we swung into all week.  I'd also like to mention that we both slipped about a hundred times traversing to the climbs.  I've never walked on ground this slippery.  You were on your bottom, sliding down the hill before you even realized you had fallen...Awesome.  Ice season is in fully swing.  Couple more days of school and then I'll be swinging the tools again.  Good times.  Next year, Krista and I will be traveling to SLC to meet Nate for some ice.

At the top of Float Like a Butterfly at Lake Willoughby

Nearing the top of the 2nd pitch of 20 Below 0 Gully (WI4+)

Topping out Float Like a Butterfly at Lake Willoughby

Nate leading the 1st pitch of 20 Below

Reaching the 2nd belay on Ragnarock (WI4/M6)

Nate leading the 1st pitch of Ragnarock (thin ice, lots-snow over rock)

Nate traversing onto the ice on Poster Child (WI4/M4)

Nate on the tricky mixed start of Poster Child

Winter?

FYI, no pictures for this post, but some should be coming soon once I emerge from my cave of academic studies (and there is ice/snow outside).  Very warm Fall/Winter.  Here it is December 3 and it was 50F and raining today.  No snow, no ice; very weird.  Apparently this hasn't happened in over 15 years according to some reports I read.  However, in the next few days ice should start forming in places like Smugglers Notch and Mount Washington.  Just in time for winter break!  As many of you know, much of my time is spent studying and writing papers for the graduate program I am in.  Not to mention the delightful physics class I am in, which ends in a mere two weeks.  I will be happy when this semester is over, that is for sure.  Krista and I headed to Boston this past weekend to watch a Bruins game (hockey) and just relax.  Ate some excellent seafood and toured the city.  Bruins game was awesome (they won in a shoot out).  The only problem was the drunkards behind us who spilled beer on us (twice!).  We picked out our Christmas tree yesterday and will be setting it up this weekend.  That is about it right now.  Now time for some homework (as usual).  Some ice climbing reports may be coming next week, we'll see.

Fall Has Arrived!

Fall is officially here.  We've received our first frost and our first snow (on top of Mt. Abe) the other day.  Temps have been dropping below freezing at night; ice is just around the corner.  The leaves are changing color and another week or so, will be in full effect.  Lincoln often has some of the best foliage viewing around, which brings the "leaf peepers" in throngs to our quiet town.  Krista and I went raspberry picking the other day at a local organic farm.  I never realized the variety in raspberry subspecies.  I was "enlightened" by the Kiwi-Gold raspberry, a yellow, absolutely delicious berry.  In addition, we picked Nova, Anne, and Autumn Britten berries.  Graduate school is in full swing.  Makes under-grad look like pre-school.  I probably spend more time in front of a laptop typing than I do sleeping.  Ice season is on its way and I can't wait!  

Chapel Pond Slab

Isaac and I had been wanting to do a multi-pitch all summer long, specifically Chapel Pond Slab.  Finally, after a summer of nothing but rain, a nice stretch of weather arrived.  Our chosen route was Bob's Knob Standard (nothin' fancy with that name), grade II, 5.3.  The climbing was easy, but excellent.  It had been quite a while since I had done a multi-pitch route.  The scenery is amazing at Chapel Pond Pass.  Great day! (Pictures not in order)

Isaac on the final rappel

Chapel Pond from the slab

View across the Pass; Washbowl Cliff

Isaac at the third belay

Looking up from belay #2

Isaac following pitch 1

Me pondering the climb "hmm, I haven't climbed a multi-pitch in a year and I've done two leads all summer..."

I Can See Clearly Now, The Rain Is GONE!

This has been an extremely rainy summer.  One of the rainiest in decades as a matter of fact.  I haven't really been able to get out much, not even to fly fish.  Either the rock is wet or the rivers are blown out.  Last week was the best weather we've had in months...It didn't rain for four days.  Since June, it has rained just about every day and on days that were "nice" , thunderstorms formed by afternoon.  Not much happening out here right now.  I start school next week.  I've been working for Lincoln Sports Summer Camp, here in Lincoln.  Krista and I started brewing our own beer, which has been a fun endeavor.  I've been doing a bit of hiking.  I hiked Mt. Abe with Isaac and Spencer a few weeks ago; It was Spencer's first time up.  Today I went rock climbing with Isaac over in the Adirondacks.  Led a couple of really fun climbs (my first rock leads in well over a year).  Summer is beginning to slip into Fall (42F last night).  Still several months of rock to climb (if it stays dry).  Stay tuned for some Boston pictures.

Lincoln from atop Mt. Abe

The Green Mountains

Krista bottling our brew

Isaac and Spencer on the summit of Mt. Abe (Lake Champlain in the distance)

Leading up an easy climb in the Dacks

Ratings are stiff out here: 5.not easy

Checking the guidbook

Our "Backyard"

Beaver Pond

Releasing a newborn painted turtle into the Pond

Just a hop, skip and jump from our doorstep

A small brookie (that was subsequently released)

Fishing the pocket water for some brook trout

SUMMER HAS ARRIVED! (Just about)

 The trees are starting to bloom in the mountains, while the lower elevations have exploded into life.  The state is proving it's nickname, "The Green Mountain State", as the once dead, scraggly hillsides are now lush and green.  The days are warm, but the nights are still chilly (below freezing a couple of times).  No more DAS Parka and letting the car warm up for 10 minutes during the -10F days.  Now it is time to ride my bike and enjoy the 80 degree weather.  Krista and I recently visited her parents cabin in the Adirondacks of NY.  Situated along a clear, mountain stream, nestled in the foothills of the High Peaks, the cabin is a lovely get away.  We went tubing down the New Haven River (located but steps from our front door in Lincoln).  I have also busted out my fly rod to try my luck for some brookies in the delightful New Haven.  I've done just a bit of rock climbing.  I am definitely a bit rusty at leading, so it may take some work.  All and all, it is shaping up to be a productive summer.  More to come on some Northeast adventures.

Preparing for my first lead in years 

Casting into the New Haven, 5 min from our place :)

Patterson Cabin (built by Krista's father)

THIS IS THE END...

I've decided to give up climbing.  No, I'm  just joking, that'll never happen. Okay, so seriously now, ice climbing season is pretty much over.  There will be some mountaineering routes to do (stuff in Huntington Ravine and over in the Daks), but real ice climbing is near the end.  At Smugglers Notch today temperatures soared into the 40's.  Everything took a beating from the last couple days of warm weather and rain.  Granted it will get cold again and will probably snow more, well into April, many climbs will no longer be in condition.  Knowing this, I decided to go out for one more day of swinging tools.  Overall I had a good ice season: led some fun routes and climbed a route that I've wanted to do for a while now, The Black Dike.  

Isaac climbing a fun WI3

Rapping the route after setting the top-rope

Climbing up to set the top-rope

Smugglers Notch Ice

A blustery day up in the Notch.  It wasn't cold (maybe 30 F), but it snowed and was windy all day, adding to the alpine spice of Smugglers.  First up was Ent Gully (2P, WI3).  Unfortunately I wasn't in the right head space to do it.  I made it most of the first pitch until the crux ice bulge.  Fun climb, wish I could of finished it.  Up next was Jeff's slide (WI2+ - 4).  I took the left line (WI2+).  The route was covered in a fair bit of snow and the ice was VERY wet.  My screws were a bit iffy.  On the crux moves my feet blew out twice, but that happens when you climb mush. 

Isaac getting ready for some belaying

Me rapping Jeff's Slide

Gearing up for for Jeff's slide

Me up in Ent Gully