Late Summer in the 'Dacks

Isaac and I climbed the Wiessner Route (II, 5.6) on Upper Washbowl Cliff during the first week of September. The weather finally was no longer excessively humid, which allowed for a comfortable day in the mountains. The first pitch of this route is the crux, with a few awkward moves getting over a roof/block. Needless to say, I "beached" myself atop the crux. The rest of the climb was very enjoyable and never difficult, just fun. Only four pitches, this route was short, but of high quality for its rating. The Adirondack Mountains are definitely my favorite place to climb out East.

Our route takes the ramp that weaves up the left side of the wall in the upper right of the photo

Isaac working his way up the last pitch

Me nearing the top of the second pitch

The view towards Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond Slab

Mt. Washington: Pinnacle Buttress

A few days before the first day of school, I drove over to NH to climb Pinnacle Buttress of Mt. Washington (5.8, III). I met up with Jeff, with whom I had ice climbed with a few months prior. We completed the steep approach in just under two hours, which was par for the course. We racked up at the base and I tackled the first "pitch", which was easy fifth at most. I ended up breaking the first pitch in two, in order to alleviate rope drag. Jeff took the third pitch, which led to the supposed crux pitch. I led the next pitch, which involved stemming and a big reach to break through the initial section. Higher up, an awkward move gained a ramp, which led easily to a belay. Jeff took the next two pitches, because one involved a chimney. For those of you who know me, I despise chimneys. As it turned out, the chimney was no such thing. Whomever decided to call this feature a chimney has never climbed a chimney before. I would call it a large corner, as much of the moves involved liebacking and stemming. I took over after this and led us to the top. Overall, an enjoyable climb, with fun moves and a great position over Huntington Ravine. Once on top, it was a mere two hours back to the car.

Pinnacle Buttress, with Pinnacle Gully to the right of the arete

Belaying Jeff up the last pitch

Pondering the crux moves

Jeff climbing up the fourth pitch

Jeff leading up the third pitch

Solo on Mt. Colden

Once again, I was unable to scrounge a partner for one of my many adventures. That is something that I have noticed is lacking out in the East; a willingness to just go. In WA, it was no chore to find someone to go slog up some crappy mountain in horrendous weather or toprope in the rain. Anyway, I had to do this one on my own. This climb is considered one of the best, if not THE best "summer mountaineering" climb in the Adirondacks. The approach and climb total just over 13 miles RT, with several thousand feet of gain (most of it on the actual "climb"). Car to car it took me just over six hours, which was a bit slower than I had anticipated. The climbing in the dike was fun, with two steps that require 4th class climbing, where a fall would be bad, but the holds are bomber. The slide itself was a cake walk. Mostly 2nd class, with one 3rd class bulge. According to the guidebook, the slide is "extremely exposed", which I find very hard to believe. A nice day in the mountains, but not the climb I was hoping it would be.

Avalanche Lake

The view from the top. Looking towards Lake Placid

Looking down Colden Slide towards Avalanche Lake (just out of view)

The "steep" section of the dike

The classic Mt. Colden summit photo