Mt. Washington: Pinnacle Buttress

A few days before the first day of school, I drove over to NH to climb Pinnacle Buttress of Mt. Washington (5.8, III). I met up with Jeff, with whom I had ice climbed with a few months prior. We completed the steep approach in just under two hours, which was par for the course. We racked up at the base and I tackled the first "pitch", which was easy fifth at most. I ended up breaking the first pitch in two, in order to alleviate rope drag. Jeff took the third pitch, which led to the supposed crux pitch. I led the next pitch, which involved stemming and a big reach to break through the initial section. Higher up, an awkward move gained a ramp, which led easily to a belay. Jeff took the next two pitches, because one involved a chimney. For those of you who know me, I despise chimneys. As it turned out, the chimney was no such thing. Whomever decided to call this feature a chimney has never climbed a chimney before. I would call it a large corner, as much of the moves involved liebacking and stemming. I took over after this and led us to the top. Overall, an enjoyable climb, with fun moves and a great position over Huntington Ravine. Once on top, it was a mere two hours back to the car.

Pinnacle Buttress, with Pinnacle Gully to the right of the arete

Belaying Jeff up the last pitch

Pondering the crux moves

Jeff climbing up the fourth pitch

Jeff leading up the third pitch